Situated in Chicago’s River North area, a red awning marks the discreet entrance on Clark Street. Upon entering, you’re welcomed by a floor of earthy-toned tiles, which directs you up two steps to the bar section. The walls, painted in avocado-green, and the wine-colored drapery create an inviting atmosphere. The distinctive art pieces adorning the walls and ceiling accentuate the Mexican theme. 

The main dining room expands out to the left, lit by well-placed track lighting and fans hanging from the black ceiling. Wooden partitions three feet high create smaller sections within the space, thus giving patrons a more personal experience. The simple wooden tables and metal-framed chairs hint at the cultural roots of these dishes, their origins built from families gathering together to enjoy meals. 

The maintenance was evident for a restaurant that has been in business for over 35 years. There were no signs of wear and tear, which could be expected considering its age. Nonetheless, the decor might be nearing the end of its useful life and could benefit from a modern refresh soon.

Both Margaret and I gave Frontera Grill a three for ambiance.

They sat us near the open prep line and expediting station, where black-shirted staff constructed each dish, preparing it for delivery to the diners. Their training was obvious, with attention to detail and consistency their top priorities. The service staff was excellent; they were knowledgeable about the menu and ready to provide recommendations and clarifications, all while being attentive to our needs. The pacing of the meal was smooth and even, with enough time between each course not to feel rushed without sitting at length with dirty dishes.

Frontera Grill’s service earned a four from both of us.

When dining at the flagship property of the restaurant that won the James Beard Foundation’s 2007 Outstanding Restaurant of the Year, you naturally have high expectations, just as we did. Rick Bayless and his team did not disappoint.

We took advantage of the Restaurant Week deal by selecting our meals from the special prix fixe menu, which showcases a variety of dishes from their regular menu. We included an order of guacamole and chips, as it is our favorite Mexican appetizer and a must for us when indulging in Mexican cuisine. The avocados were light and fresh, and the dish was balanced well. In our opinion, if onion is included in guacamole, it should be chopped into small pieces to maintain the avocado’s smooth texture and flavor. This dish, however, contained larger chunks of raw onion, which we found unnecessary. 

For our starters, we chose the Sopecitos Rancheros and the Tamales De Elote, Esquites Fritos. The sopecitos were crispy masa boats filled with braised beef, floated in roasted tomato-serrano sauce. The three pieces were topped with a chunk of avocado and dusted with fresco cheese.

I can hear some of you now. “But Mark, the sauce says it contains SERRANO… Wasn’t the dish hot?” Here is where the skill and training of the chefs at Frontera Grill separate themselves from ‘cooks’ at other Mexican restaurants. Great care and detail are put into maintaining a proper balance of all the ingredients of each dish. The serrano peppers play a proper role in the composition of this dish, adding just enough heat in balance with the acidity of the roasted tomatoes, the richness of the beef and the coolness of the avocado. The peppers are not allowed to overpower any of the other ingredient, as it was apparent throughout the dinner that the kitchen had constructed these dishes to work together like a skilled orchestra. 

We were pleasantly surprised by how light and fluffy the masa of the corn tamale was, especially when compared to the denser tamales we have tasted in other places. The elote, or street corn, topping, drove the flavors of the dish, allowing the homemade crema, cheese and smoky chile the room to dazzle the tastebuds. 

For our entrees, Margaret chose the Chicken Mole Poblano, as mole is one of her favorite sauce options in Mexican cuisine. I paid an additional six dollars and chose the Carne Asada Brava, a grilled flank steak served with a spicy huevona salsa and mashed potatoes. 

Mole sauce typically evokes strong opinions from those who try it; people either adore it or dislike it. This intricate sauce, made from over twenty ingredients, can occasionally taste bitter or overly smoky. Balancing the intense flavors of each component into a cohesive and smooth sauce presents a challenge, even for the most experienced chefs. The kitchen staff at Frontera Grill have mastered this sauce. 

Without wanting to sound repetitive, it was perfectly balanced. Every ingredient contributed to the sauce, creating a deep, rich flavor without any single intense component dominating the dish. Each dried chile, every spice, the chocolate, onion, and garlic all harmonized beautifully in this deliciously rich creation. If this wasn’t the best mole either one of us had ever tasted, it certainly stood on the medal platform as one of the top three. 

The Carne Asada was cooked to perfection, a pink, medium-rare center with a proper char on the outside. The huevona salsa, literally translating into “lazy sauce” for its ease of preparation, combined charred tomatoes and serranos into a very rustic texture, while swimming with white onions and cilantro. With just a hint of heat, it was to the steak what Hutch is to Starsky, Robin is to Batman and Chewbacca is to Solo—the perfect partner. Add in the mashed potatoes sprinkled with cotija cheese, and this dish touched every base on its home run trot. 

We finished our meal by selecting one of each available dessert. Margaret picked the Chocolate Pecan Pie Bar, and I opted for the Cuatro Leches Cake. Although we tasted each other’s selections and found them enjoyable, we were certain that we had each made the right choice based on our personal dessert preferences. 

Margaret loved the dark chocolate sauce with the dense, nutty pie. Cutting into it, it felt as it would be a heavier consistency that it turned out to be. The Kahlua whipped cream’s silky texture provided the final touch the dish required, perfectly indulging my wife’s craving for nutty, chocolaty sweetness. 

I, on the other hand, am a sucker for fruit desserts. That the Cuatro Leches Cake came with honey manila mango, pineapple and papaya had me yumming through the course. I liked the cake that absorbed the four milks (coconut, evaporated, condensed and whole), making it soggy yet still firm, topped with dollops of meringue.

I washed the dessert down with a cup of Cafe de Olla, which is a traditional Mexican coffee that translates to “coffee from a pot.” It had a deep, earthy favor, accentuated with cinnamon and cloves.

Both of us agreed, the food quality at Frontera Grill easily deserves five stars.

I’ll admit it, we cheated. By taking advantage of the Restaurant Week prix fixe menu, and dining during lunch, our final bill of $88.75, without the 20% service charge,  makes this high-quality meal a great value. Unfortunately, the restaurant only offers these incredible prices once a year. Any other time and we would be subject to the standard pricing, which would have ballooned the bill upwards of $125.

What you are ultimately paying for is the skill and talent of a chef that is also the winner of Bravo’s Top Chef Masters, an author, podcaster, YouTuber and a TV personality. We noticed it. It was evident with every bite. We saw it in the presentation of the dishes. We heard the elevation of the staff’s training and identified the quality in the aromas wafting through the restaurant.

Frontera Grill has staked their reputation on quality. There is no need to apologize for not being the best value out there for authentic Mexican food. They operate in a distinct category compared to the numerous budget-friendly Mexican eateries in Chicago, and that’s how it should remain. High quality comes at a cost.

Frontera Grill gets 3 stars in value from us both.